How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum

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How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum
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How To Install A Helicoil In Aluminum Metal
How To Install A Helicoil

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Lock the nut against the insert, then turn the insert into the hole with a wrench or socket. Or cut the head from the bolt and chuck the whole rig into a power screwdriver. When installing inserts this way, putting the slot in the hole first makes for a neater installation, and the slot helps to cut the threads.
Threaded Inserts for Aluminum - Helicoil vs. Keensert Design Engineering Discussion Forum.
Install the drill bit contained in a HeliCoil repair kit in the chuck of a drill motor. Coat the drill bit with cutting fluid. Drill the damaged hole to the correct size with the drill bit. Remove aluminum shavings from the hole with the tip of a clean rag.

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Proper way to install screw lock inserts
I am installing several locking helicoils (M5x0.8) into 6061 using a standard install tool. The problem I am having is that the insert becomes cross threaded once the locking portion begins to engage. Everything goes smoothly up until that point and then it becomes difficult to turn, indicating that it has skipped a thread. I have installed two without any problems (threaded in nice and smooth), but three others I've had to stop and remove them. I'm not sure what I did differently with the ones that worked..maybe just got lucky. On the last couple I tired I made sure to hold the outer body of the tool firmly against the surface to prevent it from lifting, but still no luck.
Any tips or tricks?
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When I install regular helicoils into aluminum I usually use a squirt of ethyl alcohol as a no-residue lubricant to help the insert through the tool body and into the Al threads. I started doing this ages ago when I was making satellite parts and have continued it with my line of auto parts. Not sure it will help you but it's easy to try.
Aside from that, try another insertion tool if there's any sign of wear on your current one, and possibly you might try a different insert supplier. Also make sure there's a clean (no burrs/folded over threads) chamfer on the tapped hole entry.
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Thanks for the advice. I've never had problems with regular helicoils, and the locking helicoils I have installed have been small (#2-56) which simply screw in without stretching like the normal insert tool.
The insertion tool I have is brand new. Good idea with the ethyl alcohol. I'll give that a try and recheck all my tapped holes, maybe increasing the chamfer a bit.
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If you still have problems try to post a few close-up pics of the insert, tool, and tapped hole. It may be the insert has more of a deformed locking coil than normal, disrupting the pitch engagement as you thread it in.
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Originally Posted by Milland
It may be the insert has more of a deformed locking coil than normal, disrupting the pitch engagement as you thread it in.
That is exactly what I think is happening. There is one coil in the middle that is deformed (hex shaped, see pic), and at the point when that coil is suppose to engage with the threads it skips a thread.
I am using Helicoil brand inserts, so I would expect them to work pretty well. I'll try again tomorrow and report back. Thanks!
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jstluise --
What type of insertion tool are you using? My experience with both standard and prevailing-torque wound-wire inserts is that the basic T-Handle Screw With A Tang-Catching Notch doesn't work nearly as well as the substantially-more-expensive 'pre-winding' type that puts an internally-threaded sleeve over the outside of the insert in addition to the usually-crank-handle threaded tang driver.
I'll also note that I avoid using wound-wire inserts if I'm allowed to use another type. My favorite off-the-shelf insert is the adhesively-retained solid-sleeve type made by EZ-Lok, followed by pellet-retained solid sleeve inserts such as Long-Lok's T-Sert, key-locking inserts, and wound-wire inserts in about that order. But if you prefer wound-wire inserts, and especially if you need to install bunches of them, I recommend using 'tangless' inserts, which were developed by Kato of Japan thirty-some years ago, and are available today from Kato, Heli-Coil, and one or two other makers. The Kato installation tool for the tangless inserts is right pricy, and the removal tool even more so . . . but those you've tried tangless never want to go back to tanged inserts.
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+1 on the more expensive 'pre-winder'. Once I started using those, I never had any problems installing the lockers.
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No experience with locking Helicoils, but I have used many Helicoils with and without the pre-winding type tool and had good results.
My favorite thread repair system is Time Serts though.
++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair,
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Originally Posted by John Garner
What type of insertion tool are you using? My experience with both standard and prevailing-torque wound-wire inserts is that the basic T-Handle Screw With A Tang-Catching Notch doesn't work nearly as well as the substantially-more-expensive 'pre-winding' type that puts an internally-threaded sleeve over the outside of the insert in addition to the usually-crank-handle threaded tang driver.
I am using a prewinder type insert tool; however, it is the cheaper version that McMaster offers (~$30 vs $90). The internally-threaded sleeve on the cheap tool is plastic and I think that is where the problem lies. I discovered that sometimes as the helicoil exists the sleeve the deformed Helicoil thread doesn't always follow the sleeve threads and basically skips a thread. This introduces a gap and eventually causes the Helicoil to skip a thread in the part. I imagine the more spendy tool is much better built (i.e. no plastic threads) and wouldn't cause this problem.
I did manage to get all Helicoils in once I figured out a little trick. Basically I didn't hold the sleeve flush with the part so I could see the Helicoil being threaded into the hole. As long as the Helicoil stayed compressed the entire time (i.e. no gaps between coils) it threaded in smoothly. Since I could see it the entire time I could stop if it wasn't going right. So, I wasn't really utilizing the 'prewinding' like I should have, but it worked. Next time I won't cheap out with the tool.
Thanks for the list of other types of inserts..we'll keep those in mind for the future. We primarily built components for satellites and Helicoils are widely accepted as a thread locking methods.
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Originally Posted by jstluise

Thanks for the list of other types of inserts..we'll keep those in mind for the future. We primarily built components for satellites and Helicoils are widely accepted as a thread locking methods.
That's amusing, I obviously didn't know that when I wrote my original comment about my own satellite usage. The engineer I was working with was originally planned on using Keenserts, I talked him into helicoils due to the lower weight and volume requirements. I agree with John Garner that the tangless inserts are very nice, but the greater cost for inserts and tooling means I stick with the 'normal' helicoil inserts for my own work. I've installed so many that I rarely have a problem, and I really like their benefits (IMHO) over the other styles.
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If you read the instructions it states to hold the tool loosely against the part (when useing a prewinder)
I have screwed up quite a few before I read the instructions.
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Originally Posted by Heavey Metal
If you read the instructions it states to hold the tool loosely against the part (when useing a prewinder)
I have screwed up quite a few before I read the instructions.
Do you have a link to the instructions? I searched around and couldn't come up with anything. I didn't get any info with the tool, either.
Hold loosely against? As in, always in contact with the part?
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I had to install 4 Helicoils in the spark plug holes of my forklift a year ago. It takes 18 mm spark plugs and I was surprised at how difficult it was to find the coils, let alone the insertion tool. I ended up with a cheapo plastic tool purchased on the internet, and I had the same results you're having. The first one or two went fine. I wrecked another 5 or 6 before I got the remaining two in. That plastic tool was a piece of crap.

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Once done, tap the hole using the tap that comes with the kit. You have to check the right size of the shank. You can find the specified helicoil tap in the catalog. Choose from any of the following: spiral pointed plug, plug or bottoming style, roughing tap, and high spiral flute.

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Helicoils are also typically stronger than the metal you are putting them into, so chances of stripping out the thread again are just about zilch. Basically a helicoil kit usually consists of a number of helicoils, thread tapper and a couple of tools to put the kit in. How to Install a Helicoil That Won’t Retract. Thomas Buckley November 4, 2015. No matter the application, if you’re dealing with an assembly that has seen its share of wear and tear, you may come across a stripped thread.

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Hot Rolled
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Installation tools for Helicoils (& similar threaded inserts): What's your favorite?
We have an aluminum part that gets 26 helicoils each (1/4-20.) The first run is only 6 parts, but it'll be repeating. I've only ever used the inserts with tangs, and the simple installation tool that comes in the cheap kits (basically a mandrel with a notch on the end.)
Personally, I'd probably just power through this job with one of those tools, chucked up in a cordless drill. But the guy doing the installation is still kinda green, and had never seen a helicoil before this; it took him nearly 3 hours to do 2 parts. I can identify with that to some degree, as I've had problematic times with them before, but I'm wondering if there's something out there that would help the novice install helicoils more easily and rapidly, but isn't necessarily priced like a tool for a guy doing a thousand a day..
Also, I've been looking at the tangless inserts and they sure are looking good. Most of our parts are such that a broken-off tang left in the bottom of the hole would be a big deal to the customer. Plus, if the novice doesn't have the right tang break-off tool and uses something too small, sometimes the last coil will be pulled out of the thread. Add in the symmetric nature of the tang-less insert, not needing to be oriented before installation, and the ability to easily back out and readjust the depth using the drive notch at the top, and I think I'm sold from here on out!
Are there any downsides of the tang-less insert vs. the tanged?
What's your favorite installation tool for tang-less inserts under $1000?
Under $300?
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only time i ever use Helicoils if i absolutely have to. I prefer the keenserts since there a lot easer and hold better for me and less chance of screwing them up
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From a production standpoint, I think these would work better.
McMaster-Carr
Helicoils to me were always for repair.
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maxh --
I don't like wound-wire inserts; I use adhesive-retained solid inserts such as the EZ-Lok whenever I can. For those times when wound-wire inserts HAVE to be used . . . Kato Tangless inserts with the Kato 'pre-wind' installation tool is the way I try to go. The Kato tool for removing the Tangless inserts is a real sweetheart.
John
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I use a pre winder attached to a cordless drill. I make my own. I have a lot of jobs that use Helicoils dozens and dozens of the miserable things. The trick to installing them is to not push on the tool. Just let the insert wind itself in without any interference from you or they cross thread. I only use Helicoils brand inserts. They're the only ones that the tab breaks off cleanly and consistently.
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Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, we don't have the leeway to change to a completely different type of insert for these parts; just gotta make them to print. I pretty much never use helicoils in my designs, either.
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Originally Posted by TDegenhart
From a production standpoint, I think these would work better.
McMaster-Carr
Helicoils to me were always for repair.
Tom
Tom - this link actually takes you to the Heli-Coil page at McMaster. I'm guessing you were thinking something else, and I'm curious as to what you think
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Originally Posted by maxh
Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately, we don't have the leeway to change to a completely different type of insert for these parts; just gotta make them to print. I pretty much never use helicoils in my designs, either.
We've installed more helicoils than I can count over the years, and all of our assemblers prefer the insertion tool of this style.
Thread Insert Hand Installation Tools MSCDirect.com
*Edit: From a design standpoint, some people say you should always use helicoils when putting tapped holes into a 'soft' material. Personally, unless a tapped hole is going to see constant use/cycling, or the threads are going to take some abuse, I steer clear of them. But they definitely have their uses.
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Don't use Helicoils - use tapping inserts such as McMaster-Carr
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Originally Posted by rwbaldwin
Don't use Helicoils - use tapping inserts such as McMaster-Carr
Sometimes you don't have a choice - customer prints call out HeliCoils and they will not deviate. (Which is what the OP said in this case)
I'm with you - HeliCoils aren't fun, but they work moderately well and are cost effective, especially if you do a lot of them. Once you get the hang of installing them, they're as fast as threading a screw in.
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Originally Posted by StoopidEngineer
We've installed more helicoils than I can count over the years, and all of our assemblers prefer the insertion tool of this style.
Thread Insert Hand Installation Tools MSCDirect.com
*Edit: From a design standpoint, some people say you should always use helicoils when putting tapped holes into a 'soft' material. Personally, unless a tapped hole is going to see constant use/cycling, or the threads are going to take some abuse, I steer clear of them. But they definitely have their uses.
That's the tool I like to use. A couple of tips. You don't want to stop winding before the insert is deep enough. You can feel the tension on the body of the winder, and can tell when the Helicoil exits the winder. After it exits you want to give it another revolution. Also keep the body of the winder pressed tight against the hole before the Helicoil peeks out of the sleeve, and keep it tight during installation. When removing the tang, the sharper the whack the more reliable the removal.
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Originally Posted by Forestgnome
That's the tool I like to use. A couple of tips. You don't want to stop winding before the insert is deep enough. You can feel the tension on the body of the winder, and can tell when the Helicoil exits the winder. After it exits you want to give it another revolution. Also keep the body of the winder pressed tight against the hole before the Helicoil peeks out of the sleeve, and keep it tight during installation. When removing the tang, the sharper the whack the more reliable the removal.
+1 to all of this.
In my experience, HeliCoils are a little tough to install, because for most of us, it feels like we're stripping something out. Once you get this (Forestgnome's) process down, and get used to having to give them a little persuasion, they start to go very quickly.
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Originally Posted by StoopidEngineer
*Edit: From a design standpoint, some people say you should always use helicoils when putting tapped holes into a 'soft' material. Personally, unless a tapped hole is going to see constant use/cycling, or the threads are going to take some abuse, I steer clear of them. But they definitely have their uses.
I think one good example is with dissimilar metals in an electrolyte environment eg steel studs in aluminium. Sooner or later somebody has to get those suckers out.
Thanks for the heads-up on the pre-winder. I've never used one and they don't give the suckers away!
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Originally Posted by Forestgnome
That's the tool I like to use. A couple of tips. You don't want to stop winding before the insert is deep enough. You can feel the tension on the body of the winder, and can tell when the Helicoil exits the winder. After it exits you want to give it another revolution. Also keep the body of the winder pressed tight against the hole before the Helicoil peeks out of the sleeve, and keep it tight during installation. When removing the tang, the sharper the whack the more reliable the removal.
I have installed about my body weight in small helicoils over the years.
Using this type of tool got SO much easier when I modded it with a notch that allowed me to watch the end of the coil go past, and I could then see exactly when the coil entered the part.
The next best tool was a scriber that had a slightly magnetized tip, for fishing out the broken drive tangs. Same scriber makes a darn good tool for removing a botched one too, once you figure out the motion to use to bend in the top coil. Had mixed results with the Heli-Coil extractors.
If not using the Heli-Coil break-off tool for removing the tangs, a drill bit shank that is as tight a fit down the inside of the threads works well.
Cheers
Trev
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Originally Posted by Pete F
I think one good example is with dissimilar metals in an electrolyte environment eg steel studs in aluminium. Sooner or later somebody has to get those suckers out.
Thanks for the heads-up on the pre-winder. I've never used one and they don't give the suckers away!
I have made my own pre-winders for some odd installs, particularly where the Heli-Coil had to be installed at the bottom of a counterbore, using the same tap as is used to make the threads or clean the mung out.
Works good to clean out the pre-winder too, if a coil has been forced through it and cross-threaded it.
Cheers
Trev
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Anyone have an interest in a power winder for helicoils? I have 2 and only can use one of them.

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